The waters off Puerto Rico provide excellent boating in all seasons. Winds average 10 to 15 knots virtually year-round. Marinas provide facilities and services on par with any others in the Caribbean, and many have powerboats or sailboats for rent, crewed, or bareboat charter.

Major marinas include the San Juan Bay Marina, Fernandez Juncos Avenue (tel. 787/721-8062); Marina Puerto Chico, at Puerto Chico (tel. 787/863-0834); and Marina de Salinas (tel. 787/752-8484) in Salinas. The Caribbean's largest and most modern marina, Puerto del Rey, RD 3, km 51.4 (tel. 787/860-1000), is located on the island's east coast, in Fajardo.

One of the sailing regattas in Puerto Rico is the Copa Velasco Regatta for ocean racing, at Palmas del Mar in Humacao.

For the typical visitor interested in watersports-not the serious yachter-our favorite place for fun in the surf is the aptly named San Juan Water Fun, Isla Verde Beach in back of the Wyndham El San Juan Hotel and Casino, Avenida Isla Verde in Isla Verde, San Juan (tel. 787/644-2585). Here you can rent everything from a two-seater kayak for $30 per hour to a banana boat that holds eight passengers and costs $15 per person for a 20-minute ride.

If you're staying in eastern Puerto Rico, the best place for watersports rentals is Iguana Water Sports, Westin Rio Mar Beach Resort, 6000 Rio Mar Blvd., Rio Grande (tel. 787/888-6000), which has the island's best selection of small boats. Waverunners cost $100 per hour, and two-seat kayaks go for $35 per hour.

For more serious boating needs, we head for Karolette Charter, Palmas del Mar, AB-12 St., RD 3, km 86.4, Humacao (tel. 787/850-7442). You can be taken out on a combined fishing and snorkeling cruise for $95 per person for 4 1/2 hours. More serious fishermen can book an entire boat, which holds six comfortably and costs $600 for 4 1/2 hours or $750 for 6 hours.